Page 665 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Magazine Rack:

Steps to build a Magazine Rack:

What better place to store your periodicals than in this inexpensive magazine rack? Using standard size left over from other projects, you can build it in no time at all.

1. Sand all stock with 1OO-grit paper to remove mill marks.

2. Mark the location of all holes to be drilled. The fourteen 1/2″- diameter column holes in the base (A) and the four 3/4″-diameter brace holes in the rails (C) must be drilled at 10° angles.

3. Change the drill press table back to 90° to drill the fourteen 1/2″- diameter column holes and the 3/4″-diameter decorative holes in the top rails.

4. Using the patterns provided, cut the contours of the top rails and
the feet (B).

5. With a handsaw or table saw, cut a 60° bevel on the edges of the base and the ends of the feet. Make sure the pieces are exactly the same width and the same angle where they join.

6. Cut the braces (D) and columns (E) to length, making sure to knock off any burrs on the ends.

7. To assemble, first attach the feet to the base using glue and #8 x 1-1/2″ flat head wood screws. Countersink the screws.

8. To complete the rack assembly, use glue to fasten the ends of the columns and braces. Be sure to wipe off any excess glue immediately with a damp rag.

9. Use a sanding block to round over all sharp edges, including the protruding ends of the braces, and to smooth the joints between the base and legs.

10. Stain the rack with an Early American stain. Natural oil is recommended for the finish.

Materials List:

Magazine Rack Parts:

Page 586 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Bread Box:

Steps to build a Bread Box:

Bread boxes are very easy to make and it is almost a crime to consider buying one — unless for some reason wood will not go in your kitchen. This particular bread box is based on one of the more common designs and is therefore easier to build than one with a roll-top lid. Bread box fanatics (presuming such a person exists) are split into two camps: those that want air holes and those that don’t. We’re not about to pin our colors to either side of the argument and, instead, offer a choice depending upon your own preference.

Construction

Note: When cutting the top to shape, the front length should be cut at a 80 degree angle. This is to ensure that the bread box door rests against the top evenly, rather than on a very thin edge (see diagram below).

Cut the two side pieces to the correct shape (see diagram on right), rounding off the top with a smooth curve. Decide which face of each side piece is the inside face and mark it accordingly. Then cut the groove in each of these inside faces. The groove should be 1/2″ wide, 1/4″ deep and 8 1/16″ long (measured from the back edge): it should be cut parallel to the bottom of the side piece at a height of 9″ to 9 1/2″ from the bottom. [The top of the bread box slots into this groove, thus strengthening the construction.] Finally, drill a 1/8″ hole in either side piece, as shown in the diagram. This should be 1 1/2″ from the bottom of the side piece, and in 1/4″ from the front. The purpose of this hole is that the hinge dowel will pass through this, into each side of the door.

As mentioned above, the top piece slots into the side-wall groove. However, for the sake of neatness, you will notice that the side groove is not quite as long as the top piece is wide. Because of this, it is necessary to cut a small niche out of each end of the top piece (see diagram below).

It is now necessary to make a groove in the top of the base piece, the inside of both sides and the underside of the top piece. This groove should be 1/8″ wide, and 1/4″ deep and should be 1/4″ from the back of each piece. The back panel slots into this groove, ensuring a nice tight fit. When creating the groove for the two side pieces, do not extent the slot all the way to the top of the sides. Instead, only run the vertical 1/8″ slot up to where it intersects the 1/2″ horizontal groove.

The final step prior to putting everything together is to prepare the bread box’ door. Dry fit the sides, base and top and make sure that the door is the correct length to fit snugly between the sides. Then, round off the bottom length of the door, so that the side profile looks like a semicircle (see diagram below).

Now, glue and nail (use small pin nails so that they won’t show) the sides to the base. Then, glue in the back plywood and add the top, so completing the box shape. Clamp until the glue is dry. Once everything is dry, remove the clamps and place the door into place. Then, drill through the 1/8″ holes in each side, into the side of the door. Put a little bit of glue onto each dowel, at least 1/2″ from the end, and then slide the dowel hinges through the side pieces into the door. The idea is to glue the dowel into the side pieces, while leaving the door to rotate smoothly around the dowel hinge (it is a good idea to wax the very end of the dowel before gluing it).

Sand everything down, ensuring that the top of the door is flush with the top piece. Screw and glue the handle onto the front and then oil the bread box. To finish the bread box, we recommend mineral oil as it
is a non-toxic oil.

Air Holes
If you have decided to add air holes to the bread box, drill 1/8″ holes into the upper part of the back plywood.

Handle

If you cannot find a satisfactory handle for the bread box, you may decide that you want to make one from scratch. If so, this is the plan for the handle used on the above box. Note that the thickness of the handle is 3/4″. Also note that the plan provided is only half a plan. Simply sketch this out onto a block of wood, and then turn the plan over to sketch out the other side. This approach helps to ensure that the handle is uniform. Once you have cut out the shape, carefully sand it until you have a nice rounded shape.

Page 575 in the part1.pdf document

Materials List:

Pictorial steps to build a Birdhouse:

Page 553 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Triangular Table:

Steps to build a Triangular Table:

Here’s the solution to uneven tables that constantly wobble: a three-legged triangular table. While the idea is a simple one, figuring out the angles provided a challenge. The result is a sturdy table with tapered legs that fit into mortises formed by bevels and compound miters. To build it, use the following step-by-step procedure:

1. Choose wood for this project that is both strong and stable. Ash and cherry were used in this example; the harder ash is ideal for the legs and leg mortises, with the cherry serving as a contrast in the areas of less strain.

2. Because the tapered legs (E) go entirely through the tabletop, the mortises into which they fit must be a particular angle and shape. The easiest way to accomplish this is to construct these angled mortises with beveled and angled parts to make up the tabletop. Begin construction by cutting out on a bandsaw the three isosceles triangles that form the inside of the tabletop (A).

3. Disc sand the triangles so they are identical, then mark the bottom of each one with an X. Cut 1/4″- wide x 1/2″-deep spline grooves on
the two inside edges of each triangle, making sure that the X is kept away from the rip fence.

4. Glue and clamp the triangles together. After the glue has dried, use a disc sander to touch up the outside edges of this inner triangle.

5. The top middle pieces (B, C) also form the leg mortises. This means that each part must have one beveled edge, one mitered end, and one compound mitered end. First, cut three pieces of stock that measure 1-1/2″ x 1-3/4″ x 14″.

6. Tilt the saw table 5° and bevel one edge of each board. Mark an X on the wide edge of each board to indicate the bottom side. Now return the table to 0°, set the miter gauge at 60°, and miter one end of each board.

7. Place the three boards (B) around the inner triangle and mark for length. With the miter gauge still set at 60°, tilt the table 14° and cut the opposite end of each board. The undersides should now be longer and wider than the tops.

8. Cut matching spline grooves in each of the boards, identical to those made in step 3. Clue and clamp the boards to the inner triangle.

9. To complete the leg mortises, cut three pieces of stock (C) that measure 1-1/2″ x 1-5/8″ x 20″. Tilt the saw table 5° and bevel one edge of each piece. This bevel matches those made in step 6 on the shorter middle boards (B); the result is that these boards will be wider on the top than on the bottom.

10. Mark the lengths of the three boards from the assembled central section. With the table set at 5° and the miter gauge set at 60°, miter one end of each piece.

11. The final operation on these boards is to bevel the undersides. Tilt the table 30° and, with the 5° beveled side facing up, cut each board so it tapers from 1-1/2″ thick on the beveled edge to 3/4″ thick on the outside edge.

12. Glue and clamp the boards to the central assembly. When the glue has dried, disc sand the corners on the underside of the table to match the bevel.

13. Drill a 3/8″-diameter hole 3-1/2″ deep through the long middle boards as shown, joint, and glue dowels in place to reinforce the joints.

14. The edge pieces (D) complete the top. Cut the pieces to size, then set the table at 0°. With the miter gauge set at 60°, miter one end of each piece.

15. Tilt the table 15° and bevel the bottom side of each piece, tapering the bottom from 3/4″ down to a 1/2″ edge.

16. Glue and clamp the edge pieces to the main assembly. With the bandsaw, cut off the corners and disc sand to the final dimension.

17. To make the legs (E), start with three 4″-wide pieces of 1-3/4″ thick stock. Tilt the table to 30° and adjust a tapering jig to cut a 2-1/2° taper on a 20″-long piece of stock. Mark an X on the top of each leg, then make one pass on each leg. Use a push stick for this to keep the wood secure.

18. Flip the stock over end for end; the X should now be on the under side of the legs. Move the rip fence about 1/2″ closer to the blade; the triangle formed by the saw kerf and the blade should be 3/4″ on each side.

19. Cut the remaining tapers, then test-fit the legs in the mortises. Mark the legs where they come through the bottom of the table top, then remove them. With the miter gauge set at 14°, disc sand the legs to equal length.

20. Apply glue to the legs and the mortises, then tap the legs in place. Cut off the top remainder of the legs with a handsaw.

21. Belt sand the top to make the tabletop surface flush. Finish as desired.

Triangular Table Assembly & Materials List:

Pictorial Representation of construction steps:

Page 550 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Herb Drying Rack:

Steps to build a Herb Drying Rack:

Whether or not you are an herb gardener, you will enjoy the rustic flavor this herb drying rack will add to your kitchen. Designed after a much larger Shaker herb rack, this project can be used to display dried flowers, hanging pots, or whatever else your imagination can muster. The rack is designed to be fastened to a wall. When not in use, the horizontal drying bars fold conveniently against the wall, out of the way of traffic. When in use for the summer herb harvest, it provides a handy place to hang bundles of herbs. Best of all, the simplicity of design allows this project to be completed in an afternoon, with basic hand or power tools. The dimensions can be lengthened or shortened to suit individual tastes.

1. Cut all the pieces to size.

2. Round the front edges of the top and bottom end pieces (B) on a jigsaw or bandsaw.

3. Drill a 1/2″-diameter hole, 3/8″ deep, in the middle of the top surface of the bottom end piece and the bottom surface of the top end piece. NOTE: Drill the holes about 2″ away from the back edge to allow the horizontal pieces (C) to pivot without hitting the wall piece (A).

4. Drill a 1/2″ hole through the center of each horizontal piece, 1″ from the back edge for insertion of the support dowel (D).

5. Cut a 3/8″-deep * 3/4″-wide rabbet on the back edge of the top and bottom end pieces for joining to the wall piece.

6. Cut a tapering chamfer on all four edges of each horizontal piece. Start the chamfer 5″ in from the back edge of the piece, increasing the taper to a full 1/4″ at the front edge.

7. Drill dowel holes in the support dowel at the desired positions underneath the horizontal pieces (as shown).

8. Sand all pieces. If the support dowel fits too tightly, sand it. Do not re-drill the holes or you risk making the horizontal pieces fit in a flimsy way.

9. Assemble the horizontal pieces on the support dowel, place the dowel in the holes in the top and bottom end pieces, then glue and nail the end and wall pieces together.

10. Finish as desired.

Materials List:

Herb Drying Rack Parts & Dimensions:

Page 548 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Router Caddy:

Steps to build a Router Caddy:

The router is one of the most versatile tools in any workshop. There is little you cannot do with a router and the proper accessories. The router caddy shown here is designed to store your router on a pad so that the router bit does not have to be removed from the collet. Extra bits are displayed in the recessed door frames against a white background that makes identification easy. Three shelves are large enough to hold wrenches, guides, and other accessories. The plans and dimensions given here are for a typical 1 to 1-1/2 horsepower router. If your router requires more or less space, adjust the dimensions to suit.

1. Begin by cutting the top and bottom (A) and sides (B) to length. Rabbet the top and bottom edge of the sides 3/4″ wide and 3/8″ deep.

2. Machine a 1/4″ x 1/4″ rabbet in the back edge of the sides, top, and bottom for the back panel. Dado the top and bottom along the center line 3/4″ x 3/8″.

3. Cut the divider (C) and shelves (D) to length. Rip 1/4″ from the back edge of each to allow room for the back panel. Machine 3/4″ x 3/8″ dadoes in the divider and left side to accept the shelves.

4. Assemble the sides, top, bottom, divider, and shelves. Glue and nail together with 4d finishing nails.

5. Cut the back (E) to size and let into the back rabbet. Secure with glue and 4d finishing nails.

6. Cut the pads (F) to size and round the front edge using a 1/2″ edge rounding router bit. Glue and nail to the bottom of the router compartment as shown. Sand and finish the caddy as desired.

7. Cut the 3/4″ x 1″ door frame members to size. Rabbet the stiles (G) to accept the rails (H) in a halflap joint. Machine the notches 3/4″ wide and 5/8″ deep.

8. Machine 3/4″ x 1/4″ dadoes in the side frame members to accept the struts (J). Cut the struts to size and drill holes spaced 1″ apart to accept the router bit shanks.

9. Cut the door panels (K) to size. Paint the inside of the door panels white.

10. Glue and nail the door frames together. Rout a 1/4″ x 1/4″ rabbet in the inside edge of the frame.

11. Square the corners and secure the door panel in the rabbet with glue and 2d finishing nails. Sand and finish as desired.

12. Mortise hinges into each door frame and into the caddy sides. Space the doors 1/8″ apart and fasten to the caddy.

13. Attach magnetic catches and porcelain knobs. Hang the caddy at chest level.

Materials List:

Router Caddy Parts:

Page 543 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Child’s Cradle:

Child’s Cradle Parts:

Steps to build Child’s Cradle:

You’ll love this old-fashioned cradle as much as your ancestors did. The lightly arched canopy protects a baby’s sensitive eyes from harsh light. The convenient treadle bars allow you to rock the cradle with one foot while reading or knitting. In short, it’s the perfect way to rock your child to sleep.

1. Use the patterns provided to cut the shapes of the sides (A), headboard (B), and foot board (C) to the dimensions provided. Cut the angle ends and bevel edges as shown.

2. Cut the handles in the sides, and shape the top edge of each piece as shown.

3. Shape the edge of the base (D) to the profile of your choice; the pattern shown is a radius bead. To minimize splintering, shape the ends of the base first, then do the sides.

4. Sand all of the pieces smooth. A drum sander will be necessary to sand the curve in the sides and the pattern cut in the foot board.

5. Assemble the sides to the headboard and foot board with glue and
counter bored #8 x 1-1/2″ flat head wood screws. Transfer the pattern to the canopy support (E) stock. Hold it up to the assembled sides to mark the angles on the ends. Span the canopy support between the sides and secure it in place with glue and screws.

6. Attach the base to the bottom edge of the sides, headboard, and foot board with glue and counter bored screws from underneath.

7. Cut the canopy pieces (F, G) to size. While cutting to width, rip a 2° bevel on both edges of the center pieces and on the inner edge of each edge piece so the pieces form an arc as shown.

8. Starting in the center and working toward the ends, attach the canopy pieces with brads. When finished, sand the top for a smooth, rounded contour.

9. Cut two pieces of stock to 1-3/4″ each piece. Cut off the end caps and trim each piece to finished length.

10. Cut two pieces of stock to the listed dimensions for the rockers (H), then shape the pieces according to the pattern provided. Drill 1″-diameter holes in the rockers for the treadle bars.

11. Drill a 1/4″-diameter dowel hole 1/2″ deep in each end of the treadle bars and in the adjoining end of each end cap.

12. Insert the ends of the treadle bars through the holes in the rockers. Attach the end caps with 1/4″- diameter x 1″ dowels and glue. Then attach the rockers to the bottom of the base with glue and
counter bored wood screws.

13. Cover all counter bored screws with 3/8″-diameter dowel plugs. Sand the plugs flush, then finish sand the cradle.

14. Finish as desired; a nontoxic finish is best. Make sure the finish is applied well in advance of the baby’s arrival in order for the finish
to dry and lose its odor. A polyurethane finish is best.

Canopy Support Pattern:

Materials List:

Page 541 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Coffee Table:

Coffee Table Parts:

Steps to build Coffee Table:

This coffee table can be built from clear grade redwood and features a tongue-and-groove board top. Feel free to use another variety of wood, either stained or left natural color.

1. Cut all of the pieces to size using the dimensions given.

2. Construct the inner legs (D, E) then connect them in two pairs by fastening a top support (H) to the backs of the wide inner leg pieces. The upper edge of the top supports should be flush with the top of the inner legs.

3. Fasten the outer legs (B, C) to the inner legs. To achieve a good corner joint, place a square block inside the inner legs and use band clamps to hold the assembly while it dries.

4. Set the side frame pieces (F) on the outer legs, their ends flush with
the corner on the outer legs. Glue and nail in place, then fasten the end frame pieces (G) in position.

5. Rip one top piece (A) down the middle. Set the tongue section on the table and push its ripped edge against the side frame. Then fit the other three uncut pieces in place. Trim the ripped edge of the remaining piece as needed to fit it in and complete the top.

6. Make sure the outer pieces of the top are flush with the top of the side frames, then drive a few finishing nails through the frames into those top pieces. Also, drive nails through the ends of the top pieces into the top supports.

7. Turn the table over on its top. Fit the two cross braces (J) in place, then drive a couple of finishing nails through the side frames into the ends of each brace. Install glue blocks or metal corner bracing between the cross braces and the side frames.

8. Turn the table right side up and drive a pair of finishing nails through each full top piece, then drive one through each narrow piece into the brace.

9. Set all nails, fill the holes with putty, sand, and finish the table as desired.

Materials List:

Page 540 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Toy Car:

Steps to build Toy Cars:

Remember how those toy cars you played with as a child never wore out? Now you can make those sturdy, all-wood toys again by following these simple plans. While specific features vary, each of these toy cars is made in the same fashion. Naturally, you might want to experiment with the designs to suit your own tastes.

1. Make a cardboard template of the car design. Trace the pattern on a 4 x 4.

2. Cut the desired car body shape (A) with a bandsaw.

3. Drill the various holes for the windows, wheel wells, headlights, and axles. Use a Forstner bit to cut the wheel wells.

4. Using a hole saw, cut four wheels (B) to the dimensions given out of 3/4″ scrap stock. The hole saw will simultaneously cut the outside contour and mark the axle hole of the wheel. Drill the 1/4″- diameter axle holes. As an alternative, the wheels can also be turned on your lathe. Drill a 1/4″-diameter axle hole through the middle of the block before turning, then turn the cylinder and cut it into wheels.

5. Before assembling the car, power sand and file each of the individual pieces.

6. Finish sand the pieces with a fine sandpaper (100 grit or finer).

7. To assemble the car, rub paraffin on the middle part of the axles (C) and slide them through the holes in the car body. Glue the wheels to the axle ends. Finally, glue the 1/2″-diameter dowel buttons into the headlight holes.

8. Check to make sure that the wheels and headlights cannot be removed by a child, then give the car a nontoxic finish.

In the future use these guidelines and your imagination to design vans, buses, taxis, fire engines, and other toy vehicles.

Materials List:

Page 538 in the part1.pdf document

Sample Tugboat:

Materials List:

Tugboat Parts:

Tugboat Front View:

Steps to build a toy Tugboat:

This sturdy tugboat floats on water, so a child can enjoy it in the bathtub or swimming pool. The all-wood design makes it safe to play with, and it can be built in no time at all. Be sure to use waterproof glue when assembling.

1. Cut blanks for the thicker pieces from 3/4″ stock face-laminated with water-resistant glue. Cut all pieces to the listed dimensions.

2. Cut out the shapes on a band saw using the patterns provided. When cutting the hull (A), set the bandsaw table at a 10° tilt; this will reduce the sanding needed to shape the contour.

3. Turn the smokestack (E) round on a lathe, then remove stock by
sanding or rasping from both sides of the cylinder to make it ovalshaped. Angle the top of the smokestack and the deck house (C)at 10°.

4. Use a belt sander with a sanding drum to make the inside concave curves on the railing (B) and pilot house (D). Shape the hull with a convex curve as the sides taper in toward the keel, gradually at first and then sharply toward the bottom.

5. Rough sand all the pieces with coarse sandpaper, then repeat with
gradually finer grits. If using a belt sander, always keep the workpiece moving to eliminate any large flat spots in the contour.

6. Before final assembly, test the tugboat to make sure it floats evenly. Attach the railing to the hull and carefully set them in the water. Move the pilot house, deck house, and smokestack into a position that enables the tugboat to float up right and level.

7. Mark the exact position of the parts, then assemble using water proof glue and clamps. Dowels can also be used for added strength.

8. Finish as desired.

Tugboat Parts and Shapes: